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@@ -80,6 +80,24 @@ That can be done over here. The origin is the starting position of your job. Aft
Make sure your offset number is 1 otherwise the machine will do 40 loops around the cut. (Thanks Irja)
![alt text](image-21.jpg)
## Ordering from board houses
I already have expierence with board houses. I ordered assembled pcb's a year ago for another project.
My preferred manufacturer is JLCPCB because you get an instant quote and it it is cheaper than PCBway in my expierence.
This is the homepage and you can directly upload your files there.
![alt text](image-24.png)
After you've uploaded the files you can edit the fabrication of the board.
![alt text](image-25.png)
You can change soldering paste, silkscreen color and more stuff. JLCPCB has really nice guides next to each option what it is and what it does.
At the bottom of the menu you can also order assembled pcb's with components or a stencil for easy paste soldering
![alt text](image-26.png)
When you enter your shopping basket you can select which pcb's you wanna order and order them.
![alt text](image-27.png)
## Making my first programmer
I went through the fabacademy website and looked for my first board to make. I wanted to make a programmer so I could program other Atiny's and SAMD's and get started on making small boards.

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# Input devices
## Group assignment && individual assignment
We first tested with the oscilloscopes and a potentiometer. We connected the potentiometer to A oscilloscope and a arduino to digital read it and analog read it.
The more we pushed the potentiometer the higher the voltage became. So the voltage drop was decreasing and that was visible on the oscilloscope.
![alt text](image-5.png)
![alt text](image-6.png)
Later on Henk connected a ds18b20 to a signal analyzer and tried reading the protocol.
## Potentiometer/Joysticks
For this week I want to get proper readings from my joysticks. I got them from aliexpress and couldn't find any datasheets on them. So I gotta test them out myself. With 3.3 volts I got good measurements when sliding the joystick to the lest and bad measurements when going to the right. When fully to the right it was hanging around 2400 and sometimes jittering to 2700. With a controller for a drone I don't want any jittering so I need to figure out how to make them completely stable. On my first board I had a lot of errors. When I was soldering the multiplexer the first time I accidentally rotated it 180 degrees. So I asked Henk for help de-soldering it.
![alt text](IMG_9293.JPEG)
![alt text](IMG_9319.JPEG)
This was my setup of my first board. The multiplexer worked straight away luckily but getting good readings from the joystick was a a lot harder than I thought. Because I couldn't get to 0 and was getting jitters.
With my second board I implemented a 5v voltage regulator. But after testing it my mcu kept reporting 0 to 3 millivolts on the pin. Which was odd. When I placed my multimeter between the input pin and the ground it reported 2.5 volts.
![alt text](image-8.png)
![alt text](image-9.png)
When fully to the right it won't drop to 0 but when to the left it goes to 4095 on the edge so I thought it maybe was that it needed 5v instead of 3.3v.
So now I wanna test on a arduino to see if it works right on 5 volts. If it does I need to figure something out to either get 5v on the esp of another way of communicating between another mcu and esp. I can't use the VIN of the esp because I want to use batteries. When using batteries there isn't going to be 5v supplied on the VIN. Or maybe I should use a power bank. Then I do have 5v out.
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/how-to-level-shift-5v-to-3-3v/

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# Lecture notes
Digital - Either 0 or 1
Analog - Read voltage
rule of thumb for signal measuring. At least sample at double the frequency that is being sampled from the sensor.
![alt text](image.png)
GPIO
Low - 0 to 1/3 vcc
High 2/3 to 1 vcc
Signal from a DHT
![alt text](image-1.png)
![alt text](image-2.png)
![alt text](image-3.png)
ds18b20
![alt text](image-4.png)
![alt text](image-7.png)