docs moulding and casting

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# Lecture notes local
Don't forget to add vents to design for air to escape
![alt text](image.png)
make pins when having 2 part mould
![alt text](image-1.png)
Credits: Saco
![alt text](image-2.png)
![alt text](image-3.png)
Pot life - The amount of time it takes when it's mixed to harden
Handling time - After 4 hours it can be moved but not removed
Cure time - Time for it to takes to completely harden
exothermic reaction can cause plastic cups to smelt
when mixing. Do so carefully to not create airbubbles.
https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/
![alt text](image-4.png)

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# Molding and casting
This week we are going to get started molding and casting. I don't wanna make something big this week because Im still super busy with university and needing to finish my final project.
## Designing a mold
We first had a local lecture on thursday about molding with Saco where we got explained the basics and some examples where shown. When designing a mould you need a negative of the object you wanna mould.
![alt text](image.jpg)
Here are a lot of design guides to follow when making a mould
![alt text](image-1.jpg)
* Parting line - The line where the mould seperates in 2 pieces
* Draft angle - The angle how the mould is split
* Vent locations - Locations of the vents where the air bubbles can escape when pouring the materials
* Riser locations - ???
* Wall thickness - ???
* big and small volumes - With high volumes of exothermic moulds watch out with the temperature.
* Required details or resolution - How detailed you want your mould, because it will directly influence the end product.
* Material choice - When making a hard final product you can't make the mould of a hard material, otherwise you aren't able to remove the product without destroying the mould.
## Reading the material sheets.
When using a material it is super beforehand to read the datasheets. Saco showed us a nice website where you can easily find any datasheet
[https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/](https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/)
When looking at the data sheet and safety sheet make sure to set the region to Europe.
![alt text](image-5.jpg)
### Safety sheet
Make sure to read this carefully so you know what you're working with and what safety precautions to take.
![alt text](image-6.jpg)
Make sure to read the Hazards identification. Luckily the `Dragon Skin 10 MEDIUM` doesn't have many hazards.
And also important is the `First aid measures`
![alt text](image-7.jpg)
### Data sheet
Once you've read through that you can read the data sheet on how to use the material and what properties it has.
![alt text](image-8.jpg)
Here you can find the Pot Time which is the time you have to mix and to pour the material. For this material it is 20 minutes which is quite some time. Some have over an hour of pot time and some have 4 minutes depending on how fast the Cure time is.
## Pouring the material
When pouring the material we first need to ratios which can be found in the data sheets. (Last image at the bottom right)
For this one I needed a 1:1 ratio. But I accidentally poured too much of one and then I also needed to do that for the other to keep the ratio.
![alt text](image-9.jpg)
After I poured I cleaned the top of the lids because it leaves a big mess. So the next person has a clean bottle to work with.
![alt text](image-10.jpg)
After that stir it gently so no air bubbles can be formed. What also helps is smacking the cup against the table with the bottom to get the bubbles out.
I've also searched online and there they recommended using a heat gun or pre-heating the resin a bit to get the bubbles out. [source](https://blog.milllanestudio.com/2020/03/7-ways-to-eliminate-bubbles-from-resin.html)
After I was done mixing I put it in the vacuum chamber to let it cure.
![alt text](image-11.jpg)
The vacuum chamber helps by pulling out the air of the resin.
My first one didn't go so well because I eye balled the ratio. So I still had a lot unmixed fluid.
![alt text](image-12.jpg)
The bottom half cured well while the top half didn't cure so much.
This was my second attempt which has gone a lot better.
![alt text](image-17.jpg)
This is the `Mold Star 16 Fast`
## Making our own moulds
To create our own moulds we first need to create a block where we can cut in.
![alt text](image-13.jpg)
![alt text](image-14.jpg)
To create this block we needed a lot of of this material. The nice part about these moulds is that you can recycle the mould into a new mould. So you can melt them into new ones.
Making the mould material soft takes some time with the pan. We had a separate pan and spoon we didn't use anywhere else to keep things sanitary.
![alt text](image-15.jpg)
After it all was molten we could pour it in the mould to make the mould itself.
![alt text](image-16.jpg)
Henk told us to do it at an angle and gently to avoid bubbles in the mould.
After that it needs to rest for a while. It is going to shrink a little bit.
## Designing something for the assignment
I wanna make something small for this assignment because I wanna continue on my final project and University papers. So after brainstorming for a bit wanting something easy and functional I came up with a component/screw mat.
This is the end result of me modeling it. I wanted to machine the components out negatively on the cnc machine so I could cast this in a mould.
![alt text](image-18.jpg)
![alt text](image-19.jpg)