extra notes

docs/Assignments/extra_research/FR-1-traces.md

@@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
+# FR-1 Trace lengths
+
+## The experiment
+For the experiment, I used FR-1 that has a thickness of 35µm. On there I will mill 4 trace sizes (0.4 mm, 0,6 mm, 0,8 mm and 1 mm) and they all have the same length of 7.5 cm’s. The traces are separated by 1 Cm.
+
+![alt text](FR-1-Traces.jpg)
+
+In this experiment I will measure the temperature of the traces with a multimeter and a thermal laser. I will also watch the board closely for any damage. Since it is FR-1 I expect it to shows signs of damage under heat
+
+## Some background information
+
+### Resistance
+When you decrease a PCB trace width, the resistance of the trace increases.
+Imagine a trace like a water pipe. Whenever you make it smaller the water needs more pressure to flow with the same amount of water.
+The same analogy goes for electricity. So for longer traces this is also the case that the amount of resistance increases with length.
+Whenever the resistance increases different things happen when voltage travels trough them. A higher resistance causes a voltage drop.
+This can be explained using Ohm's law 
+
+ $$V = I \cdot R$$
+
+The Voltage drop is Amperage $$I$$ times the Resistance $$R$$. So if you have a higher resistance or a lower Amperage you will get a voltage drop.
+Another side effect of having a higher resistance is that the resistor or trace will heat up more easily.
+
+### Capacitance
+The capacitance of a PCB trace is the amount of energy it can hold. It works like a capacitor it stores a small amount of energy.
+The capacitance is determined by the amount of copper is in the trace. So length, width and the thickness. When working with low frequency signals the capacitance is not super important.
+But when working with higher speed frequencies the capacitance can actually mess up the signal integrity.
+
+## Heat generation
+Heat within traces is generated by the current flowing through it. Not the wattage. A good example of the is train lines. These run on 230.000 volts on thin wires while being able to supply multiple trains. The higher the voltage the easier it is the transport a higher amount of wattage.
+
+## Results
+
+the power. So I grabbed an old robot with 4 stepper motors attached but I could not get them to draw more than 1.6 Amperage. So that is why the maximum in this test is 1.6 Amperage. I also had a hard time finding a way to measure the temperature of the traces because we only had a heat gun here and the laser was not the place it was actually measuring. So 0,4 mm is not measured properly.
+
+| Trace Width Trace | Resistance | Maximum safe Current in Ampere | Burn out Ampere |
+| :---------------- | ---------- | ------------------------------ | --------------- |
+| 0,4mm             | 3.1Ω       | 0.7                            | 0.85            |
+| 0,6mm             | 2.7Ω       | 0.9                            | 1.05            |
+| 0,8mm             | 2Ω         | 1.6                            | ??              |
+| 1mm               | 1.85Ω      | ??                             | ??              |
+|                   |            |                                |                 |
+
+
+ * The 0,4 mm trace was the first one I tested. I started with 0.7 amps for a few seconds. After that I increased the wattage to 0.85 amps and the trace instantly exploded and burned so I could not get temperature readings there. 
+
+ * The 0,6 mm trace it held up well up to 0.9 amps where it started getting burn marks within a 5-10 seconds. The temperature rose to 50 degrees celsius. At 1.05 amps the pcb burned out at 68 degrees celsius.
+
+ *  When testing the 0,8 mm trace I hit a roof with how much power I could consume with the robot. I could only get up to 1.6 amps and I did not manage to break the trace after powering it for a few minutes. The maximum I found before it started discoloring was 24 watts at 54 degrees celsius. This was measured after it was left on for 2 minutes.  
+
+ * I could not get to the 1mm trace because the robot could not draw more than 1.6 Amperage. So thats why these are not filled in the table.
+
+
+## Extra notes on temperature
+When something keeps fluctuating in heat it will increase in size and shrink again. This can make it so your board deteriorate faster and make traces break faster. So it isn't recommended to use high wattages in pcb traces. 
+
+## Recommendations for next time
+Make bigger pads to hookup the power easier to the pcb and maybe remove all the excess copper but that takes a super long time.
+
+![alt text](image.jpg)
+![alt text](image-1.jpg)
+
+## Files
+* [KiCad](TraceThicknesTest.zip)

docs/Assignments/week_12_machine_building/machine_building.md

@@ -29,7 +29,10 @@ Starting the project we used last years prototype as our starting point.
 (Our robot already strapped with an Ultrasonic and a Time of flight sensor)
 Dylan and I wanted to do the coding and electronics of the robot and Patrick and Irja took the designing and building part of the robot.
 
-We realized quickly that we only had 2 ports left over because all other where in use by the arduino motor drive hat. These 2 ports that where left over where the I2C port SDA and SCL. So I thought let's use ToF sensors since you can hook up multiple on I2C. After some digging in the datasheet I found out that wouldn't work because whenever you assign a I2C address to a VL53X1L it would forget it next power cycle. So I thought: what if I used a multiplexer connected to all the XSHUT pins of the ToF sensor to turn them on one by one and assign them each their own I2C address on startup.
+We realized quickly that we only had 2 ports left over because all other where in use by the arduino motor drive hat. These 2 ports that where left over where the I2C port SDA and SCL.
+![alt text](image-14.jpg)
+
+So I thought let's use ToF sensors since you can hook up multiple on I2C. After some digging in the datasheet I found out that wouldn't work because whenever you assign a I2C address to a VL53X1L it would forget it next power cycle. So I thought: what if I used a multiplexer connected to all the XSHUT pins of the ToF sensor to turn them on one by one and assign them each their own I2C address on startup.
 ![alt text](image-11.jpg)
 
 Luckily we had the I2C multiplexer [PA9555](https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA9555.pdf). So I used I2C for everything because I had limited pins. So I started designing a circuit.
@@ -500,4 +503,64 @@ So the main MCU would do all the thinking and readings from the sensors and the
     }
     ```
 
-So now I could send commands to the motors over Serial and see the motors spin in realtime. The command is structured like this. `1,500` Where 1 is the motor number and 500 is the speed of the motor. So like this I could control every motor separately. 
+So now I could send commands to the motors over Serial and see the motors spin in realtime. The command is structured like this. `1,500` Where 1 is the motor number and 500 is the speed of the motor. So like this I could control every motor separately. 
+
+## Using an ESPC6
+Since we couldn't use the Arduino for any logic stuff we needed something else to talk to the arduino that's where the ESP came in to play. I only attached the Esp Tx to the Rx of the arduino because these 2 mcu's work on different logic levels and I was concerned that the arduino may fry the the ESP if it send anything back.  
+//TODO: add more docs
+
+## Getting ultrasonic sensors to work (Again)
+On the last day I tried to connect everything together. I first started out with one ultrasonic sensor but I noticed I wasn't getting any data from it. So I started debugging and only running the code necessary to get the sensor running but that also didn't work
+
+??? Code
+    ```cpp
+    int trigPin = D4;    // Trigger
+    int echoPin = D9;    // Echo
+    long duration, cm, inches;
+    
+    void setup() {
+      //Serial Port begin
+      Serial.begin(9600);
+      //Define inputs and outputs
+      pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
+      pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);
+    }
+    
+    void loop() {
+      // The sensor is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 10 or more microseconds.
+      // Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:
+      digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
+      delayMicroseconds(5);
+      digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
+      delayMicroseconds(10);
+      digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
+    
+      // Read the signal from the sensor: a HIGH pulse whose
+      // duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending
+      // of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object.
+      duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);
+    
+      // Convert the time into a distance
+      cm = (duration/2) / 29.1;     // Divide by 29.1 or multiply by 0.0343
+      inches = (duration/2) / 74;   // Divide by 74 or multiply by 0.0135
+      
+      Serial.print(inches);
+      Serial.print("in, ");
+      Serial.print(cm);
+      Serial.print("cm");
+      Serial.println();
+      
+      delay(250);
+    }
+    ```
+
+I double, triple checked every connection and grabbed new wires in case that was the issue. After a while a directly connected it to the mcu but that also didn't work and then I gave up.
+
+![alt text](image-13.jpg)
+
+After going to Henk and reading the datasheet he said I needed to use 5 volts instead of 3.3 volts
+When I changed that connection it worked.
+
+## The result of the robot
+
+[https://fabacademy.org/2025/labs/waag/img/FINAL_XIAO_DONE.mp4](https://fabacademy.org/2025/labs/waag/img/FINAL_XIAO_DONE.mp4)

docs/Assignments/week_13_molding_and_casting/lecture_notes.md

@@ -0,0 +1,29 @@
+# Lecture notes local
+Don't forget to add vents to design for air to escape
+
+![alt text](image.png)
+make pins when having 2 part mould
+
+![alt text](image-1.png)
+Credits: Saco
+
+![alt text](image-2.png)
+
+
+![alt text](image-3.png)
+Pot life - The amount of time it takes when it's mixed to harden
+
+Handling time - After 4 hours it can be moved but not removed
+
+Cure time - Time for it to takes to completely harden
+
+
+exothermic reaction can cause plastic cups to smelt
+
+when mixing. Do so carefully to not create airbubbles.
+
+https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/
+
+
+![alt text](image-4.png)
+

docs/Assignments/week_13_molding_and_casting/molding_and_casting.md

@@ -0,0 +1,179 @@
+# Molding and casting
+
+This week we are going to get started molding and casting. I don't wanna make something big this week because Im still super busy with university and needing to finish my final project.
+
+
+
+## Designing a mold
+We first had a local lecture on thursday about molding with Saco where we got explained the basics and some examples where shown. When designing a mould you need a negative of the object you wanna mould.
+
+![alt text](image.jpg)
+
+Here are a lot of design guides to follow when making a mould
+
+![alt text](image-1.jpg)
+
+
+* Parting line - The line where the mould seperates in 2 pieces
+* Draft angle - The angle how the mould is split
+* Vent locations - Locations of the vents where the air bubbles can escape when pouring the materials
+* Riser locations - ???
+* Wall thickness - ???
+* big and small volumes - With high volumes of exothermic moulds watch out with the temperature.
+* Required details or resolution - How detailed you want your mould, because it will directly influence the end product.
+* Material choice - When making a hard final product you can't make the mould of a hard material, otherwise you aren't able to remove the product without destroying the mould.
+
+
+## Reading the material sheets.
+When using a material it is super beforehand to read the datasheets. Saco showed us a nice website where you can easily find any datasheet
+
+[https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/](https://www.smooth-on.com/documents/)
+
+When looking at the data sheet and safety sheet make sure to set the region to Europe.
+
+![alt text](image-5.jpg)
+
+### Safety sheet
+Make sure to read this carefully so you know what you're working with and what safety precautions to take.
+
+![alt text](image-6.jpg)
+Make sure to read the Hazards identification. Luckily the `Dragon Skin 10 MEDIUM` doesn't have many hazards.
+
+And also important is the `First aid measures`
+
+![alt text](image-7.jpg)
+
+### Data sheet
+Once you've read through that you can read the data sheet on how to use the material and what properties it has.
+
+![alt text](image-8.jpg)
+
+Here you can find the Pot Time which is the time you have to mix and to pour the material. For this material it is 20 minutes which is quite some time. Some have over an hour of pot time and some have 4 minutes depending on how fast the Cure time is.
+
+## Pouring the material
+When pouring the material we first need to ratios which can be found in the data sheets. (Last image at the bottom right)
+For this one I needed a 1:1 ratio. But I accidentally poured too much of one and then I also needed to do that for the other to keep the ratio. 
+
+![alt text](image-9.jpg)
+
+After I poured I cleaned the top of the lids because it leaves a big mess. So the next person has a clean bottle to work with.
+
+![alt text](image-10.jpg)
+
+After that stir it gently so no air bubbles can be formed. What also helps is smacking the cup against the table with the bottom to get the bubbles out. 
+
+I've also searched online and there they recommended using a heat gun or pre-heating the resin a bit to get the bubbles out. [source](https://blog.milllanestudio.com/2020/03/7-ways-to-eliminate-bubbles-from-resin.html)
+
+After I was done mixing I put it in the vacuum chamber to let it cure.
+
+![alt text](image-11.jpg)
+
+The vacuum chamber helps by pulling out the air of the resin.
+
+My first one didn't go so well because I eye balled the ratio. So I still had a lot unmixed fluid.
+
+![alt text](image-12.jpg)
+
+The bottom half cured well while the top half didn't cure so much.
+
+This was my second attempt which has gone a lot better.
+![alt text](image-17.jpg)
+This is the `Mold Star 16 Fast`
+
+I also made 2 other moulds for the group assignment so we knew what every material was.
+
+Dragon Skin
+* translucent
+* super flexible
+//todo:add images
+
+SORTA-Clear
+* translucent
+* A bit more flexible
+
+## Making our own moulds
+To create our own moulds we first need to create a block where we can cut in.
+
+![alt text](image-13.jpg)
+![alt text](image-14.jpg)
+
+To create this block we needed a lot of of this material. The nice part about these moulds is that you can recycle the mould into a new mould. So you can melt them into new ones. 
+
+Making the mould material soft takes some time with the pan. We had a separate pan and spoon we didn't use anywhere else to keep things sanitary.
+
+![alt text](image-15.jpg)
+
+After it all was molten we could pour it in the mould to make the mould itself.
+
+![alt text](image-16.jpg)
+
+Henk told us to do it at an angle and gently to avoid bubbles in the mould.
+After that it needs to rest for a while. It is going to shrink a little bit.
+
+## Designing something for the assignment
+
+I wanna make something small for this assignment because I wanna continue on my final project and University papers. So after brainstorming for a bit wanting something easy and functional I came up with a component/screw mat.
+This is the end result of me modeling it. I wanted to machine the components out negatively on the cnc machine so I could cast this in a mould.
+
+![alt text](image-18.jpg)
+![alt text](image-19.jpg)
+
+Now that I have measured the moulding block the design maximum are 15x10 CM. So I am going to change my design to that.
+
+![alt text](image-20.jpg)
+So my longest side is 20cm's if I scale that down by a bit more than 1/4 it fits within the mould.
+
+![alt text](image-21.jpg)
+So I scaled it down to 70%.
+
+When creating toolpaths I had a bit of trouble of making a negative cut. So I am going to make a smaller block than the wax block and combine it.
+
+Then I asked Henk how big the milling bit is. It is 5 mm's.
+
+![alt text](image-22.jpg)
+My design has holes less than 5mm's wide So I will need to fix that.
+
+![alt text](image-23.jpg)
+
+Here is the fixed design with 5mm thick walls.
+
+## Milling the moulds
+Milling the moulds didn't go that straight forward for me. Henk thought us how to mill the moulds and it was a bit different than milling wood. For example the residu of the milling we where going to use to melt into a new block.
+
+After we have fastened the block using the wood we need to turn down the spindle speed for 18000 RPM to 6000 RPM
+
+![alt text](image-30.jpg)
+We also needed to change this in Vcarve otherwise the toolpaths won't 't get calculated properly.
+
+To mill a wax block it first needs to be fastened. We did that using 4 pieces of wood.
+
+Another thing is the placement of the milling bit job home.
+![alt text](image-29.jpg)
+Because the milling bit is dead centre on the corner in the software it should also be placed half on the corner and half off. When working with super tight tolerances and smaller things it is super important to place the job home perfectly. I learned that the hard way by almost cutting into the wood.
+
+### Small accident
+![alt text](image-24.jpg)
+While fastening the wood push it into the wax block. Otherwise it may get loose during milling and this can happen.
+
+![alt text](image-25.jpg)
+
+What happened here is that the mill went into the block and the block wasn't fastened properly. What also didn't help is that the bottom of the wax block was un-even on the bottom.
+
+So after that I made a file to flatten out the wax block. But there was some damage that was going to be visible in the final product. After flattening it out I milled it again and this time it went well.
+
+Because the mould didn't have any edges because my design was too big so I made some ducktape edges and poured the mould in.
+
+![alt text](image-26.jpg)
+
+Henk also gave me the tip to measure with water how much space I needed to fill in. So I first filled it with water and poured it into a cup. After that I knew how much moulding fluid I needed.
+
+One day after I removed the silicone from the wax.
+
+![alt text](image-27.jpg)
+
+Here you can see the part that broke off during the milling accident. Then I used a stanley knife to cut all the excess off and then this is my final product of the week.
+
+![alt text](image-28.jpg)
+
+For next time: I should've poured slower and more gentle because there are a lot of air bubbles and be more careful when milling and better inspect the block and if its mounted well. 
+

docs/Assignments/week_14_system_intergration/system_intergration.md

@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+# System integration
+For system Integration is this my system design.
+
+![alt text](Screenshot_20250512_095023.jpg)
+So I will have 2 power systems in my drone. High voltage and low voltage. High voltage 16,8V will be for the motors while the 5v will be for the MCU's and the LED matrixes.
+
+I found out from the page from the ESC's that they output 5v at 3 amps each. Which is in total $5V \cdot 3A \cdot 4ESC = 60Watts$
+
+In one of my projects earlier I have ran 2 LED matrixes from a 60 watt power supply and it could easily power them. The mcu's don't consume a lot of power so the power situation should be good.

docs/Assignments/week_15_wildcard_week/wildcard.md

@@ -0,0 +1,39 @@
+# Wildcard week - Compositing
+
+## Group assignment
+For this week we started out on compositing. First I didn't really know what it was and a bit confused. But through the day I started picking up more and more and starting to find it more fun.
+
+In the morning I didn't know anything about compositing aside from Neil's lecture from yesterday. So I started clicking links on the compositing page.
+
+
+![alt text](image.jpg)
+[https://academy.cba.mit.edu/classes/composites/index.html](https://academy.cba.mit.edu/classes/composites/index.html) In there I saw some of the methods and some tips. After I went looking if Neil had a full lesson and luckily he had one from 2016. So I watched that and learned a lot from there. 
+[https://vimeo.com/165323734](https://vimeo.com/165323734)
+
+So for the group assignment we first started out cleaning the table and covering it in plastic because we where going to be working with epoxy
+
+![alt text](image-1.jpg)
+
+After that I started cutting up some fabrics to make some coupons. I chose to do 3 layers everywhere because Neil recommended that in his video lecture. Since the top and bottom of the coupon are really what is making it able to bend and go back.
+
+![alt text](image-2.jpg)
+
+After a lunch break we started mixing the epoxy and pouring over the coupons layer by layer.
+
+![alt text](image-3.jpg)
+
+![alt text](image-4.jpg)
+
+We used little coffee sticks to spread the epoxy on the fabrics.
+
+![alt text](image-5.jpg)
+
+After that we put it in the chamber
+![alt text](image-6.jpg)
+And now we wait for 24 hours till it is fully hardened
+
+### The result
+The result
+
+![alt text](image-7.jpg)
+I expected the result to be stiff and more compact like in Neil's compositing lecture from 2016 but then I probably would've needed to use the vacuum bag.

docs/final_project/final_project.md

@@ -1,29 +1,29 @@
-# Idea final project
+# Final project
 
 ## Introduction
-I wanted to combine 2 random objects that interest me into one project. A drone and a jumbotron. So im gonna make a drone with multiple screens on it that could for example be used for traffic control or entertainment purposes.
+I wanted to combine 2 random objects that interest me into one project. A drone and a jumbotron. So im gonna make a drone with multiple screens on it that could for example be used for traffic control or entertainment purposes. There is no real reason why I chose to make this beside it looking and sounding fun to design and build.
 
 ## What does the drone do?
 The drone needs to be able to fly for at least 20 minutes. It needs 2 screens on both side so it can display images or video. I wanna program the drone myself so I know how drones work and how they keep themselves upright.
 
-## Drone Requirements
-### basic requirements
-* 2 screens
-* Speakers
-* 20 min flight time
-* custom microcontroller pcb that controls the drones and screens
-* 50 meter range from controller
+??? Drone Requirements
+    ### basic requirements
+    * 2 screens
+    * Speakers
+    * 20 min flight time
+    * custom micro controller pcb that controls the drones and screens
+    * 50 meter range from controller
 
-### Sensors
-* GPS
-* IMU/rotation sensor
-* Read voltage from battery know battery percentage
+    ### Sensors
+    * GPS
+    * IMU/rotation sensor
+    * Read voltage from battery know battery percentage
 
-### Requirements when far ahead
-* Docking station
-* Automatic docking
-* Automatic pathing 
-* Design own electronic speed controllers
+    ### Requirements when far ahead
+    * Docking station
+    * Automatic docking
+    * Automatic pathing 
+    * Design own electronic speed controllers
 
 ## Images
 
@@ -50,19 +50,19 @@ When designing the drone I wanted to do everything parametric. So im going to tr
 ### Designing the drone parametrically
 Designing parametrically is very hard because every constraint needs to be perfect. Otherwise when changing lengths the design will fold into itself like this.
 ![alt text](../assets/assets_week_2/fusion360/image.jpg)
-I've spend one day getting the constraints perfect for the sketch so it scales well with everything. And this is the result of that. When I change one parameter in the variable menu the entire body scales with it. This is the final result of my design. I've made the body myself and I've imported the components from grabcad. So I had more time for blender and Onshape and so I could visualize it better.
+I've spend one day getting the constraints perfect for the sketch so it scales well with everything. And this is the result of that. When I change one parameter in the variable menu the entire body scales with it. This is the final result of my design. I've made the body myself and I've imported the components from GrabCad. So I had more time for blender and Onshape and so I could visualize it better.
 ![alt text](../assets/assets_week_2/fusion360/image-18.jpg)
 
 ### Rendering 
 I've also made a render of the drone to visualize it for other people. Making this was kind of a pain because blender is a gigantic program. You can see my [docs](../Assignments/week_2_computer_aided_design_(cad)/drone_designing.md) to see where I struggled. This is my final result of the render. I've wished it looked nicer but I didn't have enough time to dive deeper into blender.
 
-<video controls src="../assets/assets_week_2/blender/droneRender.mp4" title="Title"></video>
+<video controls src="../../assets/assets_week_2/blender/droneRender.mp4" title="Title"></video>
 
 ## Feedback from Bas and Henk
 I've gotten some feedback on my design and about the use of screens. Maybe I should only use speakers or use LED matrixes. After thinking about it I think im going to give LED matrixes a spin.
 
 ## Drone electronics
-For the drone I will need a lot of electronics. But I will also need a pcb for inside the drone so I don't have any loose connections. The main board needs a couple of components. Something to step down the voltage from the big battery or I will use two separate batteries one for the motors one for the control board. I will also need a sensor to know the position of the drone and a microcontroller. I also need a lot of power to power the screens so that will also be something interesting.
+For the drone I will need a lot of electronics. But I will also need a pcb for inside the drone so I don't have any loose connections. The main board needs a couple of components. Something to step down the voltage from the big battery or I will use two separate batteries one for the motors one for the control board. I will also need a sensor to know the position of the drone and a micro controller. I also need a lot of power to power the screens so that will also be something interesting.
 
 ### Components 
 * MCU
@@ -74,14 +74,14 @@ For the drone I will need a lot of electronics. But I will also need a pcb for i
 ### Drone remote electronics
 I'm also building the remote for the drone
 
-* Potslider for the throttle
+* Potentiometer slider for the throttle
 * Joystick for left-right-forward-backwards
 * battery
 * screen to see status of drone
 * LED (mandatory)
 
 #### Joystick
-I really wanna use a joystick for this project because having 2 potmeters under each other looks a bit weird.
+I really wanna use a joystick for this project because having 2 potentiometers under each other looks a bit weird.
 
 ### KiCad
 The first thing I did was import the design rules for our milling machine. I used the file from the lecture to import it from because there we set everything up together.
@@ -143,13 +143,15 @@ For the drone I will be using the [dRehmFlight VTOL program](https://github.com/
 ```mermaid
 classDiagram
 namespace Drone {
-    class ESPC6 Thread 1{
+    class ESPC6{
         +Control Motors
         +keep drone in the air
         +Receive communication from controller
         Flightcontroller()
     }
-    class MatrixControllerThread2 {
+    class MatrixControllerRP2040 {
+        +Receive communication from ESPC6 for Matrix data
+        ShowMatrix()
 
     }
 
@@ -164,17 +166,370 @@ namespace Controller {
     }
 }
 
-ESPC3 --> ESPC6 Thread 1 : Send data to flight controller using ESPNOW
+ESPC3 --> ESPC6 : Send data to flight controller using ESPNOW
+ESPC6 --> MatrixControllerRP2040 : Serial communication
+
 ```
+Now that I am in week 15 this has changed. The change is on the drone are going to be 2 mcu's. One for the matrixes and one for the flight controller. So they are both separate systems and can't interfere with each other.
 
-I've already gotten the motors to spin in [week 10](../Assignments/week_10_output_devices/output_devices.md) using the script in there. Now I also need to modify the driver so my ESC's can properly understand it's instructions.
+![alt text](image-30.jpg)
+
+I have already gotten the motors to spin in [week 10](../Assignments/week_10_output_devices/output_devices.md) using the script in there. Now I also need to modify the original VTOL driver so my ESC's can properly understand it's instructions.
+
+There's one specific function I need to change.
+??? Old code
+    ```cpp
+    void commandMotors()
+    {
+    // DESCRIPTION: Send pulses to motor pins, oneshot125 protocol
+    /*
+    * My crude implementation of OneShot125 protocol which sends 125 - 250us pulses to the ESCs (mXPin). The pulse lengths being
+    * sent are mX_command_PWM, computed in scaleCommands(). This may be replaced by something more efficient in the future.
+    */
+    int wentLow = 0;
+    int pulseStart, timer;
+    int flagM1 = 0;
+    int flagM2 = 0;
+    int flagM3 = 0;
+    int flagM4 = 0;
+    int flagM5 = 0;
+    int flagM6 = 0;
+
+    // Write all motor pins high
+    digitalWrite(m1Pin, HIGH);
+    digitalWrite(m2Pin, HIGH);
+    digitalWrite(m3Pin, HIGH);
+    digitalWrite(m4Pin, HIGH);
+    digitalWrite(m5Pin, HIGH);
+    digitalWrite(m6Pin, HIGH);
+    pulseStart = micros();
+
+    // Write each motor pin low as correct pulse length is reached
+    while (wentLow < 6)
+    { // Keep going until final (6th) pulse is finished, then done
+        timer = micros();
+        if ((m1_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM1 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m1Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM1 = 1;
+        }
+        if ((m2_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM2 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m2Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM2 = 1;
+        }
+        if ((m3_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM3 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m3Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM3 = 1;
+        }
+        if ((m4_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM4 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m4Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM4 = 1;
+        }
+        if ((m5_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM5 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m5Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM5 = 1;
+        }
+        if ((m6_command_PWM <= timer - pulseStart) && (flagM6 == 0))
+        {
+        digitalWrite(m6Pin, LOW);
+        wentLow = wentLow + 1;
+        flagM6 = 1;
+        }
+    }
+    }
+    ```
+What this function does is generate PWM values in software which is super inefficient. The esp32C6 according to it's datasheet supports 6 separate PWM clocks in hardware.
+![alt text](image-pc-4.jpg)
+So I wanna use these to reduce the overhead and so the loop doesn't have to run 20 times a second but faster making the drone respond faster. To use these I need to use this library.
+Right link: [https://docs.espressif.com/projects/arduino-esp32/en/latest/api/ledc.html](https://docs.espressif.com/projects/arduino-esp32/en/latest/api/ledc.html)
+
+When first looking at the documentation I got super confused why nothing was working but that was because I was looking at the documentation for the wrong framework. I was looking at the ESP-IDF framework instead of the Arduino framework.
+Wrong link: [https://docs.espressif.com/projects/esp-idf/en/stable/esp32/api-reference/peripherals/ledc.html](https://docs.espressif.com/projects/esp-idf/en/stable/esp32/api-reference/peripherals/ledc.html)
+
+So I really needed 2 functions of the library.
+* To set pwm channel, pin and resolution (ledcAttach)
+* To set the PWM frequency (ledcWrite)
+
+![alt text](image-pc-5.jpg)
+![alt text](image-pc-6.jpg)
+
+## Generative design
+Online I saw a lot of organic designs that where created by generative design.
+![alt text](image-12.jpg)
+Credits: [FormLabs](https://formlabs.com/eu/blog/generative-design/)
+I wanted to do this myself for the drone arms. So I started messing around in the generative design tab of my drone arm model.
+
+![alt text](image-13.jpg)
+I've already designed the base of the arm. What generative design does is either add or remove material based on parameters you give it.
+I've already prepared my model by created some parts as separate bodies. So I can preserve them during the generation process.
+When creating a Study you need to assign which parts to groups.
+
+![alt text](image-14.jpg)
+* The preserve Geometry group where loads get applied
+* Obstacle Geometry gets avoided and no loads get placed on there.
+* Obstacle offset increases the size of a body by an x amount of mm.
+* Starting shape is the group that is mainly going to get modified
+* Unsigned geometry are bodies that are not assigned yet
+* symmetry planes are a way to define a plane where both sides need to be mirrored (symmetrical)
+
+So after assigning everything this is my result.
+
+![alt text](image-15.jpg)
+
+After that you can open the Objectives tab to see what you wanna do and set more limits.
+![alt text](image-16.jpg)
+
+The only things I understand from this menu is the Objectives and the Displacement. The objective is straight forward and the Displacement is the amount of millimeters it is allowed to fluctuate from the original design in said direction.
+
+Now it's time to add the loads on the part. So the amount weight and force the part needs to be able to handle.
+For that there's a keybind `L`
+![alt text](image-17.jpg)
+After you've pressed that you can click a face and add force to it. In my instance it needs to withstand at least 2 kg in all directions.
+The formula for Kg to Newton is. `Earths gravity * Kg = Newton`. So 9.81 * 2 = 19.62N.
+
+After adding all of that there are 2 steps left over.
+Adding the place where it is locked in place and materials we wanna study.
+
+Over in the Manufacturing tab we can select materials.
+![alt text](image-18.jpg)
+I've added PET since there isn't PLA in the library.
+![alt text](image-19.jpg)
+
+Also make sure you have a constraint.
+![alt text](image-20.jpg)
+This can be added by pressing `C`.
+Now we can run the case!
+
+When running a study I first recommend running the pre-check.
+![alt text](image-21.jpg)
+In my case I am not milling it and the part that's hidden is the motor itself so that's fine.
+
+So now I am ready for generation.
+![alt text](image-22.jpg)
+Once I press that button this will pop up and I can press Generate 1 Study. 
+This does cost money If you don't have unlimited cloud tokens. With my education license I do have unlimited.
+
+![alt text](image-23.jpg)
+Once it starts generating this will pop up. These are the finished results. The generation process can take about an hour.
+
+## Full redesign
+I started a full re-design from the ground up because the old design was too cluttered and it didn't scale properly anymore parametrically. I first started off with the first sketch from the original design.
+
+![alt text](image-pc.jpg)
+
+From there I extruded the body symmetrically so they are always the exact same size on both sides.
+![alt text](image-pc-1.jpg)
+
+I made a sketch on the side of the drone making place for the LED matrix and all its cables
+
+![alt text](image-pc-2.jpg)
+
+After that I used the mirror tool to mirror the features over to the other side using the axes as the tool since they are dead centre. I did the same for the holes for the wiring
+
+![alt text](image-pc-3.jpg)
+After that I dragged the motor arm design into the designing window and jointed it to the body of the robot.
+
+![alt text](image-pc-4.jpg)
+Then that I jointed the arm to the robot in the corner.
+![alt text](image-pc-5.jpg)
+Now I needed to make the same holes through the case itself in the same location. So I choose edit in place from the menu.
+
+![alt text](image-pc-6.jpg)
+
+From this tab I can edit the body with all the references in place. So I could use the holes in the drone arm as reference for my cuts for in the drone body.
+![alt text](image-pc-7.jpg)
+
+## 3D printing
+I chose to fully 3D print my drone due to it's complex shape and time constraints. I still had a lot of work from university to do. We got encouraged to do compositing but that is super hard with the current design. However it would have been better since it is often lighter and more durable while being a lot more eco friendly. For 3D printing I am planning on using PLA because it has a lower carbon footprint than ABS and it releases less toxic fumes.
+
+![alt text](image343.jpg)
+
+## Burnout!
+### Part 1
+One of my motors during testing burned out completely when it was attached to the printed arm. I think the cause for this is overheating due to a propellor that's too big.
+
+![alt text](image-27.jpg)
+
+These motors where originally made for 5 inch propellors instead of 8 inch so that's kinda a big difference.
+
+![alt text](image-28.jpg)
+
+Another thing that also could be the issue is that my ESC was surging above 40 Amps and the motors could only take up to 40 amps.
+![alt text](image-29.jpg)
+
+I think the main reason was heat and the coating on the motors evaporating causing a chain reaction.
+
+### Part 2
+This time it was completely my fault for not paying attention to the wires when connecting them to the right terminals. I had all other motors taped off like this but I forgot to do that for one motor I was testing.
+
+![alt text](imag1.jpg)
+
+<video controls src="../PXL_20250528_093723437(1)(1).mp4" title="Title"></video>
+
+## Cables
+The drone needs lots of cables to get power to the places where they need to be. I first started out by laying out everything that needed to be connected.
+
+![alt text](image-31.jpg)
+I first wanted to solder all the joints together but then I remembered how it looked in the past and then decided on using clips.
+![alt text](image-32.jpg)
+![alt text](image-33.jpg)
+
+After cutting cables and soldering for a while I made this cable harness.
+![alt text](image-34.jpg)
+I still need to make a new board for both MCU's. The flight controller and the matrix controller.
+
+## New board!
+### Layout
+So my new board needs to handle 60 watts of power and a lot of wiring. So I am first going to make a rough sketch of where I want every connector.
+
+![alt text](image-35.jpg)
+
+I first came up with this. But then I realized how complicated this wiring on a one side board is going to be. So I split it up in 2 boards and then I will stack them on top of each other with standoff screws.
+
+![alt text](image-36.jpg)
+
+### Schematic
+I made both boards in the same file.
+![alt text](image-39.jpg)
+The upper board is the flight controller and the bottom board the matrix controller. I made them in the same file so I could easily copy over the edge cuts so I could stack the boards above each other.
+
+#### Flight controller
+* 4 outputs for ESC's
+* One communication pin to other Matrix controller with power and ground
+* Input BNO085
+
+#### Matrix controller
+* Communication from flight controller
+* 2 output LED Matrixes
+
+#### PCB
+![alt text](image-40.jpg)
+![alt text](image-41.jpg)
+These are the 2 pcb's I designed I first thought it would be handy to make them both in the same file. So I could align the holes so they could be stacked. But later on I realized that was a bad idea because I couldn't export them individually. So my solution was to cut them in gimp for each layer. When cutting you have to make sure to cut every layer in the same place otherwise during milling the layers may not match.
+## Matrix subsystem
+
+### Power
+I tested the power consumption on the matrix by setting the brightness to 100 and the colors to white since white consumes the most amount of power.
+![alt text](image-37.jpg)
+
+![alt text](image-38.jpg)
+The result of this is that a single matrix consumed 3,8 amps at 5 volt. With 4 ESC's providing a total of 12 amps at 5 volts I should be easily able to power the mcu's and the matrixes.
+## Assembly
+Here I started assembly of the drone. I printed the motor arms and screwed all the motors into them and soldered pogo pins to each to connect them to the esc's. Unfortunately I don't know how to connect them yet because the wires aren't labeled. 2 motors need to spin left and the other 2 right for stability.
+![alt text](image-43.jpg)
+I also saw during assembly that the drone body warped a bit but that isn't going to ruin the fun. It will still fly.
+![alt text](image-44.jpg)
+![alt text](image-46.jpg)
+![alt text](image-45.jpg)
+The weight without the propellors and batteries is 1347 grams. The propellors weight a few grams and each battery weighs 183
+$$1347 + 183 * 2 = 1713 grams $$
 
 
+## Kaboom
+I accidentally killed an esp C6 due to short in between the PWM output pin of the mcu and the 5v inputs of all electronic speed controllers. That's 5V 12Amps running through the mcu. The first few tests I was lucky that I didn't plug anything into the shorted connector but when connecting everything the mcu got killed. I sadly can't repair the board since there is hot glue everywhere to keep the connectors on the board.
+![alt text](image-42.jpg)
+![alt text](image-47.jpg)
+![alt text](image-48.jpg)
 
+Later on I realized I also killed my IMU. Because there wasn't any resistance between the 3v3 and the GND
 
+## Stripped screws
+Quick tip. When tightening screws do not do it at an angle otherwise you may strip the screw or dislodge the heated insert. Learned that the hard way. ;-;
+And when doing heated inserts make sure to do a couple of extra wall layers. So the heated insert can latch onto the plastic.
+![alt text](imag2.jpg)
+
+## TODO
+* [ ] Matrix panel subsystem
+* [x] Rewrite PWM esc control system in driver
+* [ ] Does it fly? (No it didn't)
+* [x] Power distribution system (for matrixes and mcu's)
+* [x] Test physical controller
+
+## Testing the drone(V1)
+
+The first test of the drone went horribly wrong. This was a first test with analog control with not stabilization feedback from the IMU to see if it would come off the ground. Sadly it did not go as expected.
+<video controls src="../PXL_20250604_121528011(1).mp4" title="Title"></video>
+
+### What went wrong
+* The drone was not balanced
+* The drone was a bit too heavy
+* The drone didn't have good footing to the ground
+* Motors recalibrating themselves at some startups (Last startup that didn't happen)
+* The drone arm was too weak to resist the impact of the motors
+* The batteries weren't fastened inside the drone
+
+### Improvements for next design
+* Proper legs so the drone doesn't fall over during takeoff
+* Lighter design while being as strong as possible with the least amount of material
+* A power switch because everything instantly starts once it gets power and that could be dangerous with extremely fast spinning propellors.
+* Fastened batteries
+
+![alt text](imaged.jpg)
+
+### The damage
+![alt text](imaged-1.jpg)
+One matrix board got a few ripped of leds and capacitors but I think I am able to repair that.
+
+![alt text](imaged-2.jpg)
+2 ESC's and motors got completely tangled wires. I expect them to still work since they where still spinning after the impact.
+3/4 arms got ripped off due to the crash.
+
+![alt text](imaged-3.jpg)
+![alt text](imaged-4.jpg)
+Luckily we placed cardboard under the drone incase something would happen. The propellors completely mauled the cardboard away where it hit.
+
+Now that the drone is ripped into several pieces I will be abandoning this design and start from scratch on a second design. From this point on I can only go up.
 
 
 ## BOM (bill of materials)
-| item  | price | link     |
-| :---- | ----- | -------- |
-| item1 | 999   | link.com |
+
+### Drone
+#### Parts
+| item                  | price   | link                                                                                                     |
+| :-------------------- | ------- | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
+| 700 grams of filament | € 14    | Any PLA                                                                                                  |
+| Matrix panel * 2      | € 17,78 | [https://aliexpress.com/item/4001296811800.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/4001296811800.html )        |
+| BLDC ESC * 4          | € 26,76 | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006947824850.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006947824850.html  ) |
+| BLDC Motor 1500KV     | € 34,39 | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006859037930.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006859037930.html)   |
+| 4S Li-Po * 2          | € 15,86 | [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-plus-1400mah-4s-70c-lipo-pack-w-xt60.html](https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-plus-1400mah-4s-70c-lipo-pack-w-xt60.html)                  |
+| Propellors 7040       | € 6,99  | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008125599756.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008125599756.html)                                                        |
+| XT-60 connectors      | € 1,40  | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007228544590.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007228544590.html)                                                        |
+| Wiring 26 AWG         | € 1,63  | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007213319794.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007213319794.html)                                                        |
+| seeed XIAO RP2040     | $ 3,99  | [https://www.seeedstudio.com/XIAO-RP2040-v1-0-p-5026.html](https://www.seeedstudio.com/XIAO-RP2040-v1-0-p-5026.html)                                                 |
+| seeed XIAO ESP-C6     | $ 5,20  | [https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-Studio-XIAO-ESP32C6-p-5884.html](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-Studio-XIAO-ESP32C6-p-5884.html)                                        |
+| smd male header pins  | € 2,99  | [https://aliexpress.com/item/32796117265.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/32796117265.html)                                                             |
+| M4 screws and nuts    |         | [https://aliexpress.com/item/4001072025844.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/4001072025844.html)                                                          |
+| M4 Threaded inserts   |         | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003582355741.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003582355741.html)                                                     |
+|                       |         |                                                                                                          |
+
+#### Files
+ * [Drone main body F3Z](DroneMain.f3z)
+ * [Drone arm F3D]("New DroneArm v5.f3d")
+ * [Drone main body STL](DroneMainBody.stl)
+ * [Drone main arm STL](arm.stl)
+ * [Drone side panel STL](SidePanel.stl)
+ * [Drone PCB's KiCad](drone_control_board.zip)
+ * [Drone Software]()
+ * [Matrix Software]()
+
+### Drone controller
+#### Parts
+| item                  | price   | link                                                                               |
+| :-------------------- | ------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
+| XIAO ESP-C3           | $ 4,99  | [https://www.seeedstudio.com/seeed-xiao-esp32c3-p-5431.html](https://www.seeedstudio.com/seeed-xiao-esp32c3-p-5431.html)                         |
+| Hall effect joysticks | € 11,99 | [https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007462081151.html](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007462081151.html)                                  |
+| Analog Multiplexer IC | $ 0,57  | [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/CD74HC4067M96/1507236](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/CD74HC4067M96/1507236) |
+|                       |         |                                                                                    |
+
+#### Files
+* [Handheld controller PCB](Drone%20controller.zip)
+